Yes wrong polarity will blow the ESS, if I recall there is a diode on it that will act like a fuse if the polarity is wrong. So if that is correct then should be a reasonably easy fix, contact Greg and he will let you know for sure.
Hood

Hello Hood,
The new boards are on theire way. But before they arrive, I would like to ask you something about the  drivers wiring, particularly the way Arturo's drawing shows the drivers PUL- & DIR- bridged on all drivers and tied in series to the GND on the breakout board. I have seen examples the other way, PUL+ & DIR+ bridged and wired in series. My drivers were originally bridged to PUL+ & DIR+. I'm attaching picture of the way it was originally wired, and  the way Arturo shows it. Witch is correct? Where do the drivers get the 5 volt from, going by Arturo's drawing? I believe they ( the drivers) do need the 5 volt from somewhere.
Mike

I have not looked up the data sheet for your specific drives but you should be able to connect them either way, ie either 5v common as previously or 5v gnd as Arturo is suggesting.

I think if unconnected the Enable will be active but again without actually looking at the specific data sheet I cant be 100% certain on that.
Hood

If I was to wire 5 volt common and loop the drivers  together, than instead of connecting to GND on the BOB, it would have to be connected to a 5 volt terminal on the the BOB. Am I right Hood?
If I do it as Arturo shows it, than how do the drivers get the 5 volt they need to work? By now you can tell I'm not an electronics expert, but I need to understand this concept, as I have huge fear of burning another ESS. This months pension took a big loss already.
Mike

Connecting 5v common will require that the Bob sinks the step and dir signals, ie they go to Gnd.
Connecting Gnd common will mean the BOB sources the step dir signals, ie it supplies 5v on step/dir signals.
If  Arturo is suggesting you connect common Gnd then that will likely be the way his BOB needs to be connected.

Hood

I wired it as on Arturo's diagram. All I have to do now is wait for the boards to arrive. Thanks for explanation.
Mike

No probs, did you contact Greg about your blown ESS?

Hood

Yes I did, He may or may not replace it for me free. A really nice guy. I sent the bad ones back to Arturo.

Yes Greg is nice for sure, he may be able to repair it with some luck
Hood

Hi

I note that you have an eStop breaker on the mains input. Now this may look fine on paper, BUT it is going to create unholy strife for you. For a start, hitting eStop will mean the ESS will lose power. NOT GOOD!

Most power amplifiers have an Enable input. This is where you put the eStop signal. Also, most PAs have a Fault output. You should collect all the Fault signals and OR them together to drive a flip-flop. The flip-flop output should go to the Enables and to Mach. You will need a reset button to clear the flip-flop. A LED or a light off the flip-flop is almost mandatory so you can see when the hardware has faulted. You also need to be able to see the LEDs on the PAs, so you can see which one faulted.

Cheers